Wine Within Reach
Capturing the accessible and casual spirit of the modern wine era
By Robin Schempp
Americans consume more wine by volume than any other country, a good portion of it in foodservice venues. And while our per-capita consumption lags well behind other countries, the rising trend continues. Whether it is due to the end of an overindulgent economy, better education and availability, or the influence of a new generation demanding more egalitarian options, the approach to wine is becoming more casual, food friendly and democratic — even in formal establishments. “Accessible” is the word bantered around, and that is not a code for “inexpensive” — it’s the attitude of the program, the style of service and approach to pairing. Savvy operators understand wine is an important component of the dining experience and have begun treating their programs with as much care as they do their menu.
