From Flour to Flame
Neo meets classic in today's artisan pizzase
By Robin Schempp
If ever there were a food that is the product of its parts, it must be pizza. With its essential bread dough crust, it needs little more than a tasty sauce, a few embellishments and a basic bake to make it anytime, anyplace craveable. Although the casual dining trend has relaxed more precious menu offerings, it has had the opposite effect of elevating once carefree foods like pizza for a more discerning diner.
Now, old-fashioned craft and ingredients are an important part of the new recipe. Like the advent of the better burger and the gourmet dog, we now have the artisanal pizza. Defining artisan is a tough proposition, however, with a food as elemental as pizza. The artisans themselves most often describe it as a culmination of quality ingredients, skillful dough development, great oven and bake method—a cross between tradition and ingenuity and careful research. Here we share the clues and cues of key pizza players.
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